After weeks of exploring almost every corner of Uganda’s national parks, I still hadn’t experienced two of the country’s most iconic wildlife encounters—gorilla and chimpanzee trekking. This trip would change that, and it was also my first time seeing mountain gorillas. My only prior gorilla experience was in Odzala-Kokoua National Park in the Republic of the Congo, where we trekked for western lowland gorillas. The contrast was striking. Western lowland gorillas are smaller, more dispersed, and often found in swampy terrain, while Uganda’s mountain gorillas are larger, live at higher altitudes, and spend more time on the ground in cohesive family groups.
Over the course of our stay in Bwindi, we completed three treks from the same lodge we use for all our scheduled safaris to this region. The location, service, and convenience make it the perfect base, and both the guests and I agreed that three treks was the ideal number. It gave us a variety of experiences with different families without feeling repetitive, and it was well worth the investment given the cost of the permits.
Habinyanja Family
Our first trek took us deep into Bwindi, with a long drive to the trailhead before we even began our hike. The effort was well rewarded as we came face-to-face with the Habinyanja family, one of the most established groups in the Buhoma sector. The name “Habinyanja” means “place of water” in the local language, after the swamp where they were first sighted during habituation.
The group is large and well-known, and on this visit we were treated to something truly special: the presence of a tiny six-week-old infant clutched tightly to its mother. Moments like these give a real sense of the fragility and resilience of mountain gorillas. We also enjoyed excellent views of the dominant silverback, a powerful yet calm presence who kept a close eye on his family while allowing us an unforgettable look into their world.
Rushegura Family
Our second trek brought us to the Rushegura family, often called “R-Group” by trackers. This is the largest of the groups we visited, with numbers regularly exceeding 16 individuals. They are known for their relatively calm temperament and sometimes wandering close to the Buhoma village, which makes them one of the most popular groups to see.
The trek itself was easy, beginning right from the Gorilla Centre without the need for a long drive. The highlight came when the family led us out onto an open trail. One by one, the gorillas calmly walked past us at arm’s length, completely unbothered by our presence. To stand on the path as such a large family moved past was an extraordinary experience—one of those rare moments when the line between observer and wilderness participant seemed to vanish.
